Discussion Forum

Original Subject Posting

Rig Tension
Date Posted: 05 May 04 12:55
Which setup is most suitable for the lark circa 2400 numbers?
a) A highfield lever
b) A muscle box (if so where is it best to locate the jammer)


Also does anyone have any advice on the best way to fit trnsom flaps, or is it best to seal them up (predominantly river sailing).
Author: Jere

Message ID: 66

Replies to this subject

Rig Tension
Date Posted: 05 May 04 01:17
I don't really know much about tension (most of us use a pulley system but I don't know why you can't use a highfield on a river as you are unlikely to need to adjust it on the water unless you go to somewhere it blows old boots) but on the trasnsom flaps buy some overhead projector film from Staples and cut out a transom flap shape with about 1/2 inch spare all the way around. Stick on the outside with duck tape neatly and this should last about a season. You do not need to seal it as it sticks to the trasom when it gets wet and become self releasing when you are full of water. 
Author: Mark

Reply ID: 148

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Rig Tension
Date Posted: 05 May 04 02:48
levers are all well and good, but they're pretty messy afairs and not exactly flexible. (don't know of any being used on larks atm)

muscle boxes have been seen attached to the mast before now, and are an effective solution, but only give a limited adjustment range.

lots of boats have something like a 12:1 pulley system, running along the side of the centreboard case. Using this method makes it possible to adjust your rig tension lots, and get the jib on without having to lean on the forestay, due to the range of movement.

hope this helps! 
Author:

Reply ID: 150

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Rig Tension
Date Posted: 06 May 04 08:46
If your boat's an older boat (Baker/Parker Mk1 or early Parker Mk II) then a highfield lever on a restricted water would be a good bet. You don't need to play around with the rig tension much. In fact on the older boat 250-300lb is as much as you can get on without making the boat about 3 inches narrower! You need to use a lot of kicker to maintain jib luff tension upwind when it's windy. It's also a significantly cheaper option.

If the boat is newer, you are racing in a high quality fleet or on open water then it might be worth considering the cascade system down by the centreboard case.

We'll try to cover this subject on the Technical pages of this site in the coming weeks/months.

Thanks,
Simon
 
Author: Simon

Reply ID: 152

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Rig Tension
Date Posted: 06 May 04 07:01
Does anyone have any pictures of the system that runs down the side of the centreboard case or know of anyone in the bristol area that has a similar setup that i could have a look at? 
Author: Jere

Reply ID: 155

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Rig Tension
Date Posted: 07 May 04 08:26
I have a muscle box and live near Bristol - if you decide to go that route 
Author: Garry

Reply ID: 158

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Rig Tension
Date Posted: 07 May 04 06:09
Due to the volume of queries we are getting about how to set up older boats, I think the plan is to issue some pictures/tuning guides etc. I am going to take some digital photos of my boat this weekend and will make them available to anyone who asks. When Simon has had chance to get the technical pages sorted, they may well go on there. Any specific requests for pictures (of the boat before any sarky comments!) mail fixtures@larkclass.org 
Author: Ruth

Reply ID: 160

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Rig Tension
Date Posted: 09 May 04 10:11
My Lark has a highfiled lever which only gives one position. The rig tension is very low as I can get the lever on without anyone on the forestay. I've only sailed it about 4 times but am very pleased so far

I'm in no rush for info but am looking forward to your tuning guide. Its nice to know that you'll remember older boats. It will be great if you mention things like the risks of applying rig tension to an older boat, reasonable average settings for restricted water, if you going to lead one thing back make it the...

I'm very impressed by the website and support it provides

 
Author: John Clinch Lark 1955

Reply ID: 166

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